Crazy Border Crossing at Victoria Falls!

Three weeks in Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana - Part 1

I apologize for taking over two weeks to get this out - new job. Anyways, good things are worth waiting for - and Victoria Falls and environs is a very good thing, I promise! Without further adieu…..

The more I think about it, the more I realize what an outstanding time I had visiting Victoria Falls and region in July of 2022. First of all, there’s just something about Africa that pulls at your heartstrings and makes you want to go back for more. Actually many things - the stunning physical diversity and beauty, the warm people, the abundant and thrilling ,one-of-a-kind wildlife, fascinating complex history, a multitude of rich cultures and so much more. Secondly, the day I walked across the border was one of those magical perfect days in all sorts of unexpected and completely unplanned ways, that permanently embed themselves in the “best happiest memories” compartment of your brain. Writing about it here makes me want to book a flight right now, then snap shut my laptop and head for the airport! It turned into an absolutely awesome trip.

Firstly, some basic details. Have you ever noticed that the poorest countries often have the most expensive visas and use up the most space in your passport?! From Zimbabwe to Zambia, $30-$50 in crisp US bills is standard upon entry for a one page visa in your passport (and I kid you not - those bills had better be pristine or they won’t be accepted - I had one rejected for an invisible ink dot). I flew to Harare from the ever-convenient and fascinating global hub city of Dubai (upcoming post) via Addis Abiba, Ethiopia, a roughly four hour direct flight. I highly recommend Ethiopian Airlines, the best airline in Africa and a Star Alliance partner. I had originally planned on staying in Ethiopia for a couple of weeks but the Tigray Civil War eventually forced a change in plans. Those who follow me know of my frequent rants against the media saying this and that place are “dangerous,” (no, they are not if common sense is applied) however, I draw the line at visiting active war zones. When my Airbnb in UNESCO World Heritage site Lalibela (near where the Ark of the Covenant supposedly resides in Aksum) told me the security situation was not safe, I regretfully cancelled.

After a brief transit in Addis Ababa, it was another 4 and a half hour flight to Lusaka. After a brisk, stay-on-the-plane stop, we carried on for the final hour to Harare. I had arranged for my AirBnb’s driver to pick me up at the airport and it was well worth the $20 fee as it was quite a drive to the residence I would be staying at for the next two days - and there were safety considerations. Also I find the drivers in Africa are very friendly and knowledgeable and are a great source of information on any topic you can imagine, from the local political scene to the lowdown on tourist scams.

On the drive into town, Vincent the driver gave me a detailed lecture on the currency situation. Apparently the Zimbabwean dollar had originally been worth $1.50 back in 1980 when it was introduced for the first time. However by 2006 it had declined to $1,000,000 Zimbabwean dollars to $1.50 US due to rampant inflation brought on by corruption and the subsequent overprinting of money. Therefore, in 2009 it was replaced by the USD. I had never been aware of how many countries actually use the USD as their de facto currency until I started the 76 month Global Adventure. There are 11 that only use the USD with another 16 using it as an additional currency. Who knew?! Well Vincent did, because he was a former banker who had lost his job due to nepotism and corruption, hence the driving gig.

In my 76 months of nonstop travel, I used dozens and dozens of AirBnb’s around the world. The best value and experiences I have ever had have been in Africa, in every part of this massive continent, on every visit! That is something that I did not expect at all. In Harare I stayed in the embassy district and my estate was $50 a night - for the whole bloody mansion, complete with outdoor pool, expansive grounds and a full time housekeeper, driver and car (free) and maintenance man. All surrounded by electric fences and gates, standard in this part of Africa.

In Harare I recuperated from the long day of flights and time changes. I just had time to walk around the leafy, prosperous neighbourhood and do some shopping in the local grocery store. Prices were shockingly expensive, even when compared with Canada and when I mentioned this to Vincent, he stated that only the rich could afford US-denominated grocery stores. The vast majority of Zimbabweans shopped in the much cheaper local markets only. Their economy has deteriorated markedly from the days when it was known as Rhodesia. Power cuts are common everyday due to corruption and incompetence within the power company and government, so most people have backup diesel generators. In any event, the second night I enjoyed one of those beautiful, purple sky sunsets that I have only ever seen in Africa.

After an early morning flight from the brand-new, Chinese-built airport (China’s out-sized influence is visible everywhere in Africa and it’s increasingly less welcome by the locals) I arrived in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, a two hour flight from Harare. Originally I was going to take the bus (because flights are surprisingly expensive in Africa) but when I realized that what looked like a short distance on the map was actually 865 km or 9 hours by bus, I forked over for a plane ticket. Africa is huge!

I stayed for three days in the small city of Victoria Falls at a friendly little guest house, roughly a 20 minute walk from the world’s longest waterfall. I visited Victoria Falls, one of the world’s 7 natural wonders on both the second and third days and they were way better than I expected. The 1.7 kilometer length blew me away! Niagara Falls is very impressive (and wins in the volume category) but twice as high Victoria Falls crushes the competition in my books. Of course I have yet to visit Iguazu so I will reserve judgement until then but for me, it’s the most amazing waterfall I have seen so far, the world’s largest sheet of falling water. The Big Thunder roars and you will get soaked by the constant spray which is forcefully ejected out of the impressive canyon.

Dr. Livingstone was the first European to see the falls in 1855. The spray from the falls typically rises 400 meters and occasionally 800 meters and can be seen from 50 kilometers away! It was a thrilling sight and perhaps a little too thrilling for me to try the famous photo shot at the very edge of the falls. I remember the first time I saw that photo I thought it was fake - it isn’t. During the low water season you can (with the help of a guide of course), swim to the aptly named Devil’s Pool just behind the lip of the waterfall - crazy, although it is safer than it looks and no one has ever been swept over - from that particular spot - yet! Tourism got underway after the bridge across the Zambezi River was built in 1900.

After a few chill days on the more popular Zimbabwe side, the day arrived for me to walk across the border and bridge to the town of Livingstone, I presume, on the Zambia side. I was most excited about this for purely personal reasons. Dr. Livingstone was my earliest childhood adventure hero, after I randomly picked up and read his dog-eared, paperback biography from a dusty black book spindle one fine day in the school library when I was in Grade 3. His epic tales of adventure in Africa literally inspired me to be a traveller for the rest of my life.

I wasn’t sure if I was going to walk across the border or get a taxi all the way to my hotel-I decided to play it by ear because I always plan things carefully well in advance (not). I soon reached the start of the bridge and it is not for those afraid of heights as you are over 100 meters above the Zambezi river. So of course, halfway across the bridge you can bungee jump off it and straight into the gorge, a drop of 350 feet!

“No thank you very much” I stated firmly to the operator who tried to entice me to plunge to my death in thrilling fashion. However, this was a friendly man of many hustles, a naturally born salesman and he had soon abandoned his post at the Bungee jump which was surprisingly (suspiciously?) bereft of customers, in order to offer me his services, whatever they may be. At this point, almost on cue, a couple of his friends appeared from the side of the bridge hawking copper bracelets. These guys were hilarious, cracking jokes nonstop, while adding detail upon detail as to why these bracelets would improve my health, make me rich, and cure cancer. I promised to buy one but not until just before I reached Zambian customs, as I wanted to just enjoy the walk. Vincent (yes, the most common name in Africa) kept his underlings in line and I almost laughed out loud as he admonished them to leave me alone until we reached Zambia as I had instructed.

In any event we soon reached Zambian customs and I purchased a copper bracelet. Just after I did that, 3 more aspiring jewelry salesmen appeared but Vincent shooed them all away, and then turned towards me and said, “I will expedite your entry into Zambia. He disappeared into the crowded customs office and a couple of minutes later emerged looking victorious. “Come, come, come,” he said with a big smile while pushing the people in front of us to the side. Under his breath he whispered that his cousin was one of the customs agents working there and I could skip the line. Since the wait was over an hour, I agreed, knowing that he would expect a tip in return but since we hadn’t discussed what that “tip” would be, that it would be at my discretion. Welcome to Africa! I will end there - to leave you in a little suspense for what is to come….and complete Part Two in a few days. Stay tuned and thanks for reading!